Celebrate Summer In Japan Like The Locals
For some, summer in Japan is the most challenging season for romantic dates. Rain ruining plans, constant humidity that defies any attempt to stay fresh, and the ever present danger of exposing an adventure buddy to heatstroke. On top of that, Japan’s increasing popularity with international visitors means there isn’t a noticeable letup in tourists clustering around the postcard sights. Even well-laid plans can dissolve quickly under dark skies, turning what should feel special into something hurried and overheated.
But, for those who know the ephemeral nature of Japanese seasons, the plum rains of June bring with them an effervescent explosion of pinks, purples, blues and white blossoming hydrangeas. Seen this way, these brief weeks offer an atmosphere where shared inconvenience has the potential to turn into core memories. So grab an umbrella, slop on some sunscreen, chug electrolytes, and take the hand of your favourite floral fanatic. Here are three temple gardens to visit on a hydrangea hunting date in Kansai.
Location:
From Kyoto or Otsu.
Time:
Late June and July.
Good for:
- Photographers
- Botanical enthusiasts
- First dates
Quick points:
- Accessible by public transport
- Mix of popular and secret spots
- Hydrate frequently
Mimurotoji Temple, Uji
Known colloquially as the “flower temple”, the Mimurotoji gardens change seasonally with azaleas before and lotus blooming soon after the hydrangeas.
Entry: 1,000 yen
Opening hours: 8:30 – 15:10
Access: Mimurodo station, Keihan Uji Line
Special Events: Weekend Night Illuminations “Ten thousand hydrangeas” proclaims a metal sign at the entrance to Mimurotoji. The storied temple, with a history of over 1200 years, has only been known for its garden since the very end of the 20th century. This is thanks to a boom of botanical tourism in the 90s, after Osaka hosted the International Garden and Greenery Expo which encouraged temples and parks to reimagine their grounds as seasonal attractions.
Wide, meandering paths are perfect for strolling hand in hand.
Its pathways wind up and down through hillsides, occasionally opening onto small clearings where visitors pause for photographs and to take in the vista of petals. Stone steps lead up toward temple buildings devoted to the Buddhist deity Kannon, and peppered with an assortment of lucky statues said to grant everything from wishes come true to romantic success.
The magic of a date at Mimurotoji extends beyond its spacious gardens and impressive temple. Located just a short distance from the heart of Uji, a morning at the temple can easily unfurl into a lazy afternoon. Amble along the river, sample a matcha soft-serve, and snap a classic selfie in front of Byodoin Temple (the iconic hall featured on the 10-yen coin). Best of all – it offers a breezy escape from the heavy summer humidity of central Kyoto.
Another heart-shaped hydrangea. Truly the most romantic of flowers.
Yatadera, Nara
This way to the “Ajisai” garden.
Entry: 700 yen
Opening hours: 8:30 – 17:00
Access: Koriyama Station, Kintetsu Line and then take a shuttle bus (during June)
When a place is nicknamed, “The Hydrangea Temple”, it sets a certain expectation and Yatadera meets it with confidence. While the temple nominally boasts the same number of hydrangeas as Mimurotoji, the more compact nature of its garden increases the intensity of the flowers’ power per square metre. What it lacks in scale, it makes up for in immersion.
The paths descend into color. As they narrow the leaf-cover thickens and visitors soon find themselves moving in single file up uneven, rocky steps. On rainy days (arguably the best time to visit) small streams form into trickling waterfalls. The hydrangeas, heavy with moisture, appear almost luminous against the deep greens of the hillside.
Walls of hydrangeas surround and spill onto the paths.
Getting to this temple takes more time and transfers than Mimurotoji, but for the devoted day-trippers, the impact of the garden is worth the effort. More than a destination, Yatadera is a romantic petal pilgrimage.
Shinyodo Temple
A hidden gem (outside of autumn), Shinyodo has a small but stunning section of hydrangea bushes.
Entry: 0 yen
Opening hours: 24 hour
Access: Shinnyodo-mae bus stop, Kyoto
The easiest of the temples to access, is also ironically the quietest. Shinnyodo is an easy walk from the Philosopher’s Path, but seems to be entirely ignored by the hordes who stumble along its stones.
Its gardens cannot yet compete with the sheer volume of plants in Mimurotoji or Yatadera, but couples can still wind through paths lined with blue, pink, and purple, all framed by the cool green of summer maples.
While not much larger than the scope of this shot, Shinnyodo is often completely empty – perfect for private romantic encounters.
Shinyodo’s gardens are free to enter and wander, though a fee of 700 yen is required to visit the inner temple buildings and view the dry garden within them. All the hydrangeas are out in the public area however, and nearby are even a couple of picnic tables, for prepared couples who pack an afternoon snack to enjoy while observing the three storey pagoda.
Honourable Mention – Kyoto Botanical Gardens
Kyoto’s Botanical Gardens are an excellent date destination at any time of year and have a cute corner set aside for their hydrangeas. Rent some wicker picnic baskets, blankets, and coffee pots to transform lunch into a postcard perfect picnic experience.
Final Thoughts
Taken together, these three temples offer distinct ways of experiencing the sticky summer season. Mimurotoji’s hydrangeas can be enjoyed alongside a day in Uji. Yatadera is more remote but immersive, rewarding effort with intensity and an almost overwhelming closeness to the blooms. And Shinnyodo, by contrast, offers a quiet escape from the crowds.
In a season often defined by rain and humidity, these temples transform the dampness into lushness and possibility. Early relationships can often carry a similar weight. Uncertainty, vulnerability, emotional intensity are not comfortable but are the exact conditions that allow deeper connections to take root.
Just as hydrangeas deepen in color with rain, feelings often become more vivid in moments that seem less than picture perfect. So, embrace the summer as you embrace the person you most want to spend it with.