Famous In Japan For High Quality Ceramics, Shigaraki Is An Easy Day Trip From Kyoto.
Emerging from a train embellished with tanuki illustrations, onto a station platform lined with tanuki statues, then stepping out into a town where every second shop is a warehouse full of tanuki, a traveller, or even a pair of them enjoying a countryside date, would be excused for thinking that tanuki is the beginning and end of what Shigaraki offers. While this playful symbol of luck has become synonymous with the city, Shigaraki rewards visitors with much more. It has history and galleries enough to satisfy connoisseurs of Japanese ceramics, as well providing a serene space for those looking to escape the busier corners of Kansai.
The mix of culture and cuteness fits well for anyone in the forays of dating in Japan, and heading out into this experience can have a beautiful effect on bringing couples closer to that wonderful realisation of the true love that exists between them whether they have met via an Omiai or through other means of introductions.
Location:
Shigaraki, Shiga prefecture
Nearest station:
Shigaraki station on the Shigaraki Kogen railway
Good for:
- Half or full day adventure
- Ceramic enthusiasts
- Hands on activities
Quick points:
- Multiple train transfers to navigate
- Many shops closed on Monday and Thursday
- Tasty soba and udon options
The intertwining of tanuki with Shigaraki is a surprisingly recent phenomena.
An Evolving Pottery Heritage
Shigaraki has been producing pottery for over a thousand years. Thanks to high quality local clay and the village’s proximity to the tea masters of Kyoto, the ceramics fired here have enjoyed sustained popularity over the centuries. There is an organic, earthen finish to the pieces, which appeals to those who subscribe to wabi-sabi aesthetics. Firing in wood-burning kilns allows for variation in colour, from oranges, browns, blacks, and green to a signature scarlet hi-iro caused by direct contact with the flames.
A mosaic at the entrance of the Shigaraki pottery museum highlights the warm spectrum of colours produced during the firing process.
During its early history, around the 13th century, the Shigaraki potters produced large vessels for storing water and preserving food, and to this day, many ryokan and onsen around the country boast of their Shigaraki crafted, human sized tsubo pots, which are perfect for soaking in. Later, tea masters prized the rough, natural finish of Shigaraki cups, bowls and vases when performing the minimalist rikyu style of tea ceremony.
Shigaraki is home to more than seventy galleries and ceramic warehouses.
From roof-tiles to hibachi braziers, Shigaraki pottery has adapted to the needs and tastes of its customers over the centuries. Surprisingly, the now-iconic tanuki statues are a relatively recent invention, emerging in the Meiji era. The story goes that one night, local potter Fujiwara Tetsuzō spotted a tanuki drumming on its belly and was so captivated by the sight that he sculpted the first tanuki figure. After World War II, when the Shōwa Emperor visited Shigaraki, villagers lined the streets with tanuki statues holding Japanese flags in his honor. The event received widespread television and radio coverage, forever linking Shigaraki with its cheerful tanuki in the minds of people across Japan. This connection endures to this day.
From miniscule to gigantic, shoppers can find the perfect sized tanuki in Shigaraki.
Exploring Shigaraki
A day date in Shigaraki starts with the train ride out. Leaving the urban areas of Kyoto and Kusatsu, the train winds through rice fields and tiny hamlets of tiled-roof, wooden farmhouses. The trip takes around 2 hours, so make sure to pack snacks, and factor in bathroom breaks where possible.
The Koka region is also famous for ninja, and the railway has cleverly combined its two most recognisable assets.
Departing from the train hand in hand, adventurous duos are greeted by gleefully grinning, hand-painted tanuki, giving a taste of what is yet to come as they explore deeper into the town.
A short distance from the station is the free Shigaraki Pottery museum, with pictures and bilingual exhibits detailing the history of the town. This is also an excellent place to pick up English maps and information.
Large warehouses sell staggering amounts (and sizes) of ceramics along the road near the station, and the nearby busier route 307. For those lucky few in search of a towering tanuki statue, this is the place to find them. Deeper into the city, the twisting streets around Shingu shrine hold smaller cafes and galleries. A recommended way to explore Shigaraki is by rental cycle. These are 500 yen a day for a normal bike, or 1000 yen for an electric. For only 2000 yen, those with a valid Japanese license can even rent a tiny electric car!
Apart from shopping, sweethearts can try their skills on a pottery wheel at Marutoku Toki Tokusai Kobo, or visit Sotoen, Japan’s largest “climbing” kiln, which also offers pottery experiences.
Classes are held multiple times a day at Marutoku along route 307. 1 hour for 2000 yen. Japanese only.
Ueda-san, a third generation master of Sotoen, feeds his kiln. Inside are thousands of locally handcrafted pottery pieces. The kiln is only fired twice a year – in February and August.
Food Options
Noodles are a popular lunch option in Shigaraki, with a huge variety of soba and udon restaurants to choose from. Soba Sankyu, situated close to the station, offers a warm, traditional aesthetic to complement hearty bowls of broth, and handmade soba noodles. Unfortunately, they are only open on Fridays and the weekend. For weekday visitors, Kotani, along route 307, serves up udon and tempura, with a cheery vibe and English menus. A local recommendation for those who want a broader range of options is kisaten Toen. Part gallery, part old-timey coffee shop, Toen provides traditional teishoku sets with salad, pickles, rice, soup and main dishes from gyudon to curry rice.
Getting There
Shigaraki is a 2 hour train ride from Kyoto, with multiple train transfers on the JR line, before switching to the Shigaraki Kougen railway for the last stretch.
When transferring at Kibukawa station, riders should remain on platform 3, and cross to the other side where the train to Shigaraki waits. A handy IC reader sits in the middle of the platform for those who use the smart cards. The train to Shigaraki itself requires a paper ticket, which can be purchased at a vending machine on the platform, or the train conductor directly.
Final Thoughts
A day in Shigaraki offers much more than its whimsical tanuki statues for those working out whether they have met their perfect life partner. Beneath the playful exterior lies a deep-rooted tradition of craftsmanship and a glimpse into Japan’s pottery history. For romantic explorers searching for a countryside escape, it is a wonderful place to browse the countless galleries, bond over a pottery-wheel, or slurp up handmade noodles in a homey café. Just a short train ride from Kyoto, Shigaraki invites visitors to embrace the beauty of imperfection – a fitting reminder for couples at the start of their journey towards a great relationship together.